4.2.2 Laying Cork

Modeling Information

The prototype uses earth, ballast to raise the track over the subroadbed. (See 4.1.1 Roadway). Railroad modelers use a variety of materials to do the same. Those materials include: homosote (a paper product that comes in 4' x 8' sheets), cork in various thicknesses depending on scale, and polystyrene foam. 

Material.

Cork Strips. Roadbed sized cork strips can be purchased online or from from traditional hobby or craft shops. Midwest Products. Midwest Products is most noted for its 3' long O (3/16 (5mm) x 2 5/8), HO (3/16 (5mm) x 1 3/4) and N (1/8 (3mm) x 1 1/8) scale cork strips. Midwest also offers cork squares, cork rectangles and cork sheets of various sizes.  The HO cork strips will model a 16 inch ballast base 13 feet wide,

 

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Cork Sheets and Rolls. For double or  triple track areas, cork sheet can be used. Home Depot has 1/4" x 2' x 4' sheet floor underlayment sheets available. Larger areas such as yards, cork rolls can be purchased from cork suppliers. I have seen 100 sq.ft. roll advertised by a couple of cork suppliers. The thickness you order is based on the thickness you wish to model on your layout.

Using Midwest Products cork strips. 

Midwest Product cork strips are easy to use. The center of each strip is cut at a 45 degree angle. You separate the strip down the middle.  Lay the cork strips, lining each side with the track centerline. Push pins or weights hold it in place until the adhesive dries.

Cutting bulk cork product

Clamp an aluminum straight edge 15/16″ from the edge and make a 45 degree razor blade cut. Then re-clamp at 1-3/4″ and make a 90 degree cut. Separate the two pieces and you end up with a tapered roadbed just like the Midwest Product stuff.

 

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The WWSL

I am using polystyrene foam as my roadbed. The only place I am using cork roadbed is in the helix. The subroadbed is 1/8" luan. I purchased 1/4" 2'x4'  rectangles from Home Depot, and cut it to size as necesary.  

Tools and supplies. You will need the following items

  • Box cutter
  • Straight edge 
  • Seam Roller
  • Wax paper
  • Precut cork
  • Latex adhesive caulk or wood glue
  • Weights
  • Paint (if desired)

Laying Cork

All cork was affixed to the plywood with latex adhesive caulk with silicone. Using this caulk is a departure from the Elmer's white glue that I have used in the past. The caulk remains supple after curing and seems to transfer less noise from the rolling stock than my prior layouts where hard when cured Elmer's glue was used to affix the cork.  

The affixed cork is then weighted down. I use paver bricks saved from prior landscape projects. Other modelers use heavy books or concrete filled coffee cans.  I have only so many coffee cans and other objects of serious weight so the gluing moves in sequence.  The cork sheet is porous enough that some glue will ooze up through it when the weights are placed. I use wax paper between the cork and the weight to prevents the weight from accidentally becoming glued to the cork.  The cork comes out flat as a pancake.

Strategically placing the weight should result in a flat roadbed surface. If it doesnt come out flat, then i level it with 50 grit sandpaper. I use a hand sander, but if youre doing alot of footage, a belt sander works great.

The final step before laying the track was painting the cork and scenery base. I prefer to paint the cork the same color as the ballast, that way if I am a little thin in applying the ballast the brown cork does not show through. The non-roadbed scenic areas were painted my dirt color. Paved road and parking lot locations were painted dark gray.  All cork roadbed in the back of the layout (invisible areas) was painted flat black after installation using interior latex wall paint.

Here are some pictures of my cork laying projects using Midwest Products cork strips and bulk cork cut to size.

Vignette locations using wood panels

 

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Vignette locations using wood panel, polystyrene foam and cork.

 

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Widely recommended on forums and in magazines, a small squeeze tube of DAP clear adhesive caulk was purchased to glue the rubber sheet that I cut to fit 5 tracks on 2" centers, and later on the pieces of flex track. To make sure it glued flat as possible I "borrowed" a rolling pin which I wisely protected with saran wrap as some of the caulk oozed up between some holes in the rubber. I piled some books on it and let it sit overnight.

Laying Cork

On previous versions of the WWSL, I have used Elmer's Glue and matte medium as my adhesive of choice. I can definitely recommend the matt medium as a long term adhesive. It takes alot of effort to remove flex track and turnouts that have been glued down with the matte medium. Some sections of the WWSL that I recycled has had track that refused to come off after being secured with matte medium 20 years ago! This time I am going to use acrylic adhesive. See 4.2.2 Laying Cork for specific technique.

Note: Seal the roadbed before laying any track.

This will extend the life of the cork or other material and will reduce if not eliminate shifting with temperature or humidity. Sealing with paint similar to the ballast color will also help disguise any areas where ballast is missed during application or damaged during handling.

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