3.3.4 Multi-level Benchwork

Benchwork is the term given to the structural assembly that supports the model railroad layout. 

In 3.4 Benchwork I identified that in Lynn Westcotts authoritative work How to build Model Railroad Benchwork, he identifies two ways to frame the railroad layout and three ways to support the track.

In this page we will discuss building a multi-deck layout, using both open grid and L-Girder, the second primary elements of benchwork construction.

There are several techniques used in multi-level benchwork construction. 

Technique 1 is to construct open grid benchwork and secure it directly to the layout room stud wall.

Technique 2 is to construct open grid benchwork and secure it to the layout room stud wall with either wood or metal shelf brackets. One modeler used 2 in by 4 in cantilevered wood studs screwed directly into the stud wall, the drywall having been removed for the installation. 

Technique 3 is to construct vertical risers from the lower benchwork to the upper benchwork level. This was primarily to support a second level around the room (helix - like ) technique. 

Technique 4 was to build an upper level L-Girder framework and tie it into the stud walls just like  the lower level was constructed.

Here is some of the multi-level layouts and their construction techniques.

Conrail's Onondaga Cutoff.blogspot.com  Dave Abeles uses cantilevered wood shelf brackets for upper level benchwork

Adena Railroad  Chris Ellis uses open grid framework on metal shelf brackets for track support.

Signal Station 199  Joe Smith uses a unique stud wall, plywood bracket framework and flat top (plywood) track support. 

LK&O  Alan uses open grid framework on metal wall brackets. 

New Britain Station  Randy uses open grid secured directly to the stud wall

The CB&Q in Wyoming  Mark Pruitt uses open grid secured directly to the stud wall.

The WWSL

I read extensively about the various construction techniques utilized by other modelers to support the individual decks of multi-deck layouts to see if I could apply one of these methods to the basic track plan designed for the new layout.

The WWSL ver 2.0  was a free standing double deck layout in an attic. Braced vertical studs held L-girder modules at both the upper and lower levels. Definitely difficult to build and install - I'll never do it again and certainly would not recommend it even to my worse enemy!

My basement wall was concrete that required a stud wall See 3.4 WWSL Stud Wall  for construction details. As it was a floor to ceiling install I could use Technique 4 to build an upper level L-Girder framework and tie it into the stud walls like the lower level was constructed.

As a technique it had simplicity in its favor. A majority of the layout was against a stud wall. The aisle side framework on the upper level was tied into the end wall L-Girders with truss plates. 

The free standing spans of the upper level were 30 ft on the north wall, 20 ft on the central peninsula, and 12 ft on the south wall. They were L-girder build per 3.5 WWSL L-Girder Framing. I modified the technique for the upper level. 

First I doubled up the thickness with a second 1 in by 4 in girder. The second girder strengthened the girder and also serves as the light bar. 

This L-Girder is then raised to the proper height and temporarily held in place with 1in x 3 in lumber set vertically and clamped until the ends of the girder are secured to the stud wall 

The second modification was to put two threaded rods at 10 foot intervals on the upper section and secured it to the valence. This aides in maintaining level on the upper level. The 30 ft span got 2 rods, the 20 ft span got one rod.

Here's what the rod arrangement looks like. Hardware consists of two hinge plates, threaded rod cut to size, two nuts and two washers. The hinge plates are screwed into the L girder flange and valence and the threaded bar is run thru the hinge and secured with the nuts and washers.

The nut at the bottom is tightened until the L-Girder is level. both horizontally and from front to back.

On WWSL 2.0 I used clear venetian blind closing rods between the upper and lower decks. I would knock against them at times with my elbows and they would break, too much stress on the rod vertically. I find that this new technique is solid, and I quickly ignore the rod visually.

When it comes time to photographing the layout in some distant future, I can brace the upper deck with a 1 in by 3 in piece of dimensional lumber (painted black) and secured with a C-Clamp,  unscrew the rod and remove it until the photography is completed.