12.2.3 Master Builder - Structures

To qualify for the Master Builder - Structures certificate:

1. You must construct twelve scale structures:

   1. At least six different types of structures must be represented in the total.

      The intent of this requirement is show that you can model a variety of types of structures, not just several variations of the same type. For example: a wood frame station and a brick station would be different types, but a wood frame station from Kansas and wood frame station from California would probably not, unless you could show that there was a substantial difference in the construction. When in doubt, why try and split hairs? Instead, try your hand at building something completely different. You might learn some new modeling skills in the process, and who knows ? You could even have fun doing it!

   2. One of the six types must be a bridge or trestle.

      Before you panic with visions of elaborate wooden trestles dancing in your head, stop for a moment and consider just how many different types of bridges and trestles there on or around a railroad. Remember, your bridge doesn 't have to span the Grand Canyon; a short span over a creek or dirt road may be enough. The point is to demonstrate that you know how to build a bridge that is appropriate and will support the load that it has to carry. If there is no place on your layout for the tracks to cross a bridge, how about a bridge that carries something else? You could replace a grade crossing with a bridge that carries the road up and over the tracks (as many prototype railroads have been doing in recent years), or build a foot bridge like the ones over many rail yards Finally, remember that you can even build the bridge as a separate model - it doesn 't have to go on your layout.

   3. At least six of the models must be scratch built.

      The following parts are specifically excluded from the scratch built requirement (although you may scratch build them for additional points):

      • Light bulbs & electronics
      • Paint, decals, etc.
      • Figures
      • Basic shapes of wood, plastic, metal, etc.

      Something that you should remember if the idea of "scratch building" intimidates you: There is very little difference between scratch building and building most craftsman kits. The big difference is that in a kit the manufacturer has assembled the materials that you will need, for you. Only the construction need to be done from scratch. If you take someone else 's plans and instructions (even those from a kit) and go to the hobby shop and buy the materials yourself and assemble them, that qualifies as scratch building. On the other hand, if you do develop your own plans, make sure that you tell judges that, as it will earn you extra points.

   4. The remaining six, if not scratch built, must be super-detailed with scratch built or commercial parts (for extra points).

      There are all sorts of ways to super detail structures. Look closely at what you are trying to model, and see the little details: signs, ladders, electrical fixtures, window details, roof details, etc. For buildings, including an interior (and a way to see it) is definitely recommended, with as much of it as possible scratch built for extra points. Including some sort of "scene within a scene" is a good way to catch the judges' eye. Adding detail to your structures will not only meet this part of the requirements, but will also add to your score, and to the overall appeal of your model.

      One way to save money and increase your scratch building score is to buy only one of a particular detail part, and use it as a model to make the rest yourself. This means build the others yourself from scratch, NOT to use the commercial part as a master to make a mold to cast copies of it.

2. You must earn a score of at least 87-1/2 points on six of the twelve models in either an NMRA sponsored contest or in AP Merit Award judging.

   Note that only six of the twelve must earn 87-1/2 points. The others don't even have to be judged! They do all have to be described on the Statement of Qualification (see below).

3. You must submit a Statement of Qualification (SOQ - available from the Regional AP Manager) which includes the following:

   • An attachment giving a detailed description of each of the twelve models, including:
     • Identification of all scratch built features
     • All commercial components used
     • Materials used in building the model
     • A notation that the model is operational, if it is intended to be
     • If the model is a kit, whose kit is it?
   • Verification of the Merit Awards (photocopies of the certificates or signed Judging Forms )
   • Photos of the model are helpful, though not required.

     Your twelve structures do not all have to be of the same scale or era, or on the same layout. In fact, in most cases, it's better to build the structure separately, have it judged (either in a contest or in separate Merit Judging), and then install it in its final location. In this way, the judges can get a better look at it.

     Note: Many contests require that structures NOT be mounted on any kind of sceniced base, or they will be considered "Displays". However, for separate Merit Judging, they can be part of your layout. 

     
     

     
     
     Projects - Structures
     
     On my layout I will need some scratchbuilt models to represent signature buildings, such as the E.T. & H.K. Ide building in St. Johnsbury. Other structures can be used relatively as designed. Here are some of the structure projects I’ve worked on for the layout.
     
     Web page written and maintained by Mike McNamara
     
     I finished up this Mainline Siding and Supply kit. I changed the kit by making the pre-stained wood a little more brown and turning it into an antique barn. I named the business for my mom who likes to collect antiques. It will be placed somewhere near the Maine Central track on the layout (when that section is built!). Twin Mtn. is between Whitefield and Fabyans. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     Another laser cut kit, this one from New England Scale Models, is in use for the Fisher covered bridge in Wolcott, VT. This is a fairly accurate model for this bridge, although the siding on the model is horizontal instead of vertical. I added some trim detail using L shaped styrene. I’ve since added some weathering to the roof and installed this on the layout. One problem I encountered was trying to pre paint and weather the pieces. If you build this model, don't try to do any painting or weathering before it is assembled. I had lots of problems with warping, regardless of painting both sides. After it is glued and assembled, then paint and weather! (Click on image for larger view)
     
     One of the great advances in model railroading in the last 15 years or so is the advent of the laser cut wood kit. Before, tackling one of these craftsman kits could be quite a challenge. Now, these kits are simple and great looking every time. This model was built by my wife Tanya, her first such model ever built. It is the Dill's Market Laserkit by American Model Builders (featured in a MR Step-by-Step article). She had lots of fun with this and I think it came out great. It is serving as a rural post office in Hardwick, VT, like so many you see up north serving small villages. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     With my wife building a laser cut structure, I decided to dig out the Laserkit Springfield Depot I won a few years ago as a door prize. She was having so much fun that I wanted to build one as well! It looks complicated, but this literally took a couple of hours over the course of 5 days. First I 1 built up the walls on the base, braced the corners and set it aside to dry. Then I brush painted the window and trim sheet Aged Concrete. I airbrushed the walls D&RGW Red. In the next session I applied all of the windows and trim and started the bay window. Next time I completed the bay window and started the roof. In the final session, I painted the roof and chimney and applied the last of the trim. Although not an exact match, I'll put this somewhere on the LVRC. If you've never tried one of these kits, you don't know what you are missing. We've already gone through the catalog and picked out our next models! (Click on image for larger view)
     
     A while back I worked up some mockups of key St. J buildings to get a feel for the size and placement on the layout. Well, one night sitting at the computer I decided to play around with my photos of the E.T. & H.K. Ide building to see if I could improve the look of the mockup. This worked pretty well. I trimmed and resized copies of the images with software and printed out the pieces on a color printer. I used a glue stick to attach the paper to the existing foam core board mockup. I'm going to try some other buildings, perhaps scanning in pictures from books for views I don't have. If you'd like more info on how I did this or the actual ready-to-print images for this building, let me know via e-mail. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     In preparing the St. Johnsbury section, I need to scale down some of the buildings. So I decided to use mockups to help do this as well as fill in these empty spaces until I can get around to actually building these structures. Here is a scaled down Caldbeck-Cosgrove building. I've kept the basic idea intact but reduced the size and therefore the number of windows. It has helped and I think when I do build this I will lower it slightly to look more correct. For this mock up, I photo copied the Grandt Line windows and glued them to white paper. I then glued the paper walls onto foam core board and assembled the building. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     Here is building that is a mock up no more! I completed the Allen Lumber company building. It is scaled down a bit and is not an exact replica. For example, the prototype is not clapboard siding and the 2 windows are a bit different. But I think it captures the feel of the building. This is built entirely of styrene with construction paper strips for the tarpaper roof. For the sign, I painted stick on lettering blue and applied them to a piece of styrene. The effect helps simulate the raised letters on the real building. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     Last Update: April 8, 2010
     
     At the north end of St. Johnsbury yard the road East out of the center of town is Rt. 2 also known as Portland Street. It rises above the CP and MEC tracks on a deck girder bridge. I figure this serves well to help bracket the scene and block the fact that the tracks curve behind the backdrop. I built my bridge using the Rix kit but added styrene sidewalks to widen it, scoring lines to represent the concrete sections. For the base, I used 3 Atlas plate girder bridges. I cut these in half and then glued them upside down to the Rix roadway sections. Not an exact match, but close. For now, it rests on the Rix supports, but I plan to build the round concrete support columns like those on the actual bridge to make it a little more accurate and a little bit less similar to everyone else's highway overpass. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     This is a Walthers grain elevator built per the kit instructions. It is being used to represent the Boudreau Brothers building in Sheldon Jct., Vermont at the crossing of the LVRC and then the CV. I don't have any actual pictures of this building, so I used this kit to fit the area. I still need to add some signs and ground level details, but it immediately transformed the look of the area. (Click on image for larger view)
     
     I’d like to say I built this structure as it really is outstanding work. It was built by my friend Diane. Diane was married to my late friend Glenn Salvatore and this was built for the Rutland layout we worked on together as part of the South Jersey Workshop in the late 1980s/early 1990s. After Glenn passed away and as Diane prepared to move up to NY, she presented this model to me as a remembrance of Glenn, the SJW and our days together working on his layout. I really appreciate that. The model is scratchbuilt and reprsents a potato house. It even has a handcarved stone foundation. Really nice. I included this on a farm scene along the LVRC. (Click on images for larger view)
     
     This is a GC Laser farm stand kit I found while browsing on-line one day. I thought it was really cool and built up the kit. It went together pretty easyily and is a really nice model. I will have to try other GC Laser products in the future. The problem was where to fit it on the layout. I found a small area along the front edge and was able to make it work, and it really transformed the scene. I made Hardwick Farms signs on the computer and added people and other details. (Click on images for larger view)
     
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